That Sicily is the home of italian street food is not a great news! The American trip community Virtual Turism compiled a list of the ”Top Ten Best Street Food Cities”: Palermo is fifth!
The kiosk food in the paper cornet to eat by walking, that everytime durties your hands, is nowadays not only an habit for those who have little time or few changes in their pockets, but also a way to protect typical products from extinction.
In our trips, street food has been, in many cases, the salvation from faint caused by empty stomach and, for sure the best way to taste the local culture ( soiling often our t-shirts with sauces and dressings).
Ok, Palermo is the flagship of Sicilian street food…but what about Modica?
Roberto was born there and he had 28 years to taste, try and enjoy any type of Modican street delicacies (can you imagine how many arancine, granite and scacce you can swallow?).
This summer we decided to start a “pigout tour” among rosticcerie, bakeries and cafes,looking for food to be eaten walking and which costs little “costano picca” ( in Sicilian).
it is a wheel of pizza bread rolled up and stuffed with bits of caciocavallo ragusano (a typical cheese), in a flower shape! A delicious afternoon snack (even if it is a calorie bomb). The best one we have ever eaten can be bought at the F.lli Modica’s bakery, at the end of Corso Umberto I. (We also reccomend you to try a puff pastry roll filled with arancina..like a “wrong arancina”).
Cost: 1 € each
first of all we have to specify that if you order in Modica a focaccia you will get a scaccia. Forget any similarity with the regular focaccia that you can find everywhere in Italy. Scaccia is crispy, a single bread dough refolded on itself and filled with stuffing. Let’s talk about the stuffing…we have discovered that there are different schools of thought, there is the “white” party where the main character is ricotta cheese, sometimes combined with sausage or parsley. The “red” party, on the other hand, support plain tomato sauce maybe with caciocavallo cheese, aubergines or onions. GNUMMY!! We have tasted scacce anywhere in Modica but the best are those of ”L’Arte della focaccia” (Modica Sorda) and rosticceria Antichi Sapori (Modica Alta).
Cost (it’s depend on size): 2-3 €
they belong to the great family of Sicilian focacce. It’s a typical Easter food but you can find it in the rosticcerie’s counters the whole year long. It’s a little bread filled with minced meat, parmesan and parsley (once they used lamb entrails). It has been love at the first sight ( vegans, we are sorry for that!). We have bought a tray of pastieri…and the day after they were even better…things done in the old manner are made to last! Alexander (Modica Sorda) is the place where we have gorged ourselves.
Cost: 1, 30 € (each)
they have a lead role in Sicilian street food tradition and every city claims its “paternity” causing real struggles!In Modica they are made with meat sauce (bolognese sauce) whereas in Palermo they contain saffron. They have been the main protagonist of our summer meals (we had to sacrificed ourselves for the cause)…after an accurate research we have proclaimed that Girapollo’s arancine are the best ones!
Cost: 1,50 € (each)
in an island where food is the most important topic, this dessert makes all Sicilians argue! For us it has been our daily date in August in order to assuage the summer heatwave and also because we are gourmands! We have tasted the Modican granita par excellence at Rosy Bar (Modica Sorda). The best of in this bar are mulberry grantitas and the ones with ricotta, coffee, flakes of Modican chocolate and pistachios!To make our snacks a bit lighter we used to share one brioche…fighting everytime for the custard top! We have to mention also Bar Fiore in Marina di Modica…granitas made with fruits are superlative (for us the best one is prickly pear flavour).
Cost: 5€ (with brioche)
this fried pastry dough filled with sweet creamy sheep ricotta cheese is the spearhead of Sicilian patisserie. In our opinion, they are absolutely part of the street food category: fat enough, can be eaten by walking and prepared when ordered!We don’t want to blame anybody…but Antica Dolceria Bonajuto (Modica Bassa) is the best place to taste cannoli! You can order the one you prefer ( with chopped pistachios, Modican chocolate, hazelnuts) and they will prepare it freshly. We suggest you to crunch it (or devour it) sitting on Saint Peter’s Cathedral steps!
That’s all folks!
See you at the next ”pigout tour”..maybe in Rome?
Den and Robi